Concrete is the most common choice for driveways and walks in Lincoln Park, and it lasts the longest with the least upkeep if it is built right for frost and salt. Asphalt costs a little less and needs regular sealing. Pavers look good and can be lifted and reset, but they cost more and need edges and a deep base. The prices below are national figures published by HomeGuide for 2026, not our quotes.
Concrete or asphalt for a driveway?
Concrete usually lasts longer and needs less care, while asphalt costs a little less up front. HomeGuide lists asphalt at $5 to $12 or more per square foot and a 20x20 asphalt drive at $2,000 to $4,800, compared with $6 to $15 for concrete. Asphalt is flexible, so it handles frost movement without cracking into plates, but it needs sealing every few years and softens in summer heat. On a long, narrow ribbon drive to a back garage, most owners here pick concrete.
Poured concrete or pavers?
Pavers cost more and let you lift and reset sections, while poured concrete costs less and has no joints for weeds. HomeGuide puts a paver patio at $10 to $17 per square foot, or $3,800 to $6,800 for 20x20. Frost can heave pavers too, but they can be lifted and reset. A paver job needs a deep compacted base and a solid edge, and on Downriver clay that base work is most of the cost. Stamped concrete gives a similar look in one slab.
How thick should a concrete driveway be?
Four inches is the common minimum for a car driveway, and 5 to 6 inches is better for heavy trucks, an RV or a drive that gets pickup and delivery traffic. Dearborn's flatwork rules, for example, set at least 4 inches for driveways and patios and at least 6 inches for approaches and the sidewalk across them. The base under the slab matters as much as its thickness.
Do I need rebar or wire mesh?
Steel does not stop concrete from cracking, but it holds the cracked pieces together and level. On clay that moves, that helps. Rebar on chairs at mid-depth is stronger and easier to keep in the right place than wire mesh, which often ends up pressed to the bottom where it does little. Your quote should say which one, the size and the spacing.
What PSI concrete do I need?
For outdoor slabs in Michigan, ask for at least 3,500 to 4,000 psi with air entrainment. Dearborn's flatwork rules, for example, call for at least 3,500 psi and 5 to 7 percent air. The air bubbles matter more than the strength number for resisting freeze-thaw and salt. A higher psi mix with no air can still flake in a Michigan winter.
Is stamped concrete worth it?
It is worth it if you want the look and will reseal it every few years. Stamped concrete costs $8 to $19 per square foot nationally, against $4 to $12 for a plain patio. In Lincoln Park it holds up best on patios and walks, away from heavy salt. On a driveway or an apron at the street, the color and sealer wear faster. If you do not want to reseal, a plain broom finish is the safer pick.
Should I seal new concrete, and when? How often does concrete need sealing?
Yes, seal new outdoor concrete in Michigan. Wait until it has cured, usually about 28 days, and apply sealer in dry weather above the temperature the label lists, ideally before the first winter. After that, reseal a plain driveway or walk every two to three years, or when water stops beading on the surface. Stamped concrete may need it more often. A penetrating sealer works well on plain concrete because it is not slippery.
Broom finish or smooth finish? What finish is best for a steep driveway?
A broom finish is the right choice for nearly all outdoor concrete here. It gives grip on rain, snow and ice. A smooth trowel finish is for garage floors and basements, not walks and drives. On a steep driveway, ask for a heavier broom texture across the slope, or a grooved finish, so tires and shoes grip in sleet. Steep drives are less common in flat Lincoln Park than in Riverview, but basement entries and garage ramps can be steep.
What does a hot tub pad need?
A hot tub pad needs a level slab at least 4 inches thick, often thicker with steel, on a compacted stone base, sized a little larger than the tub. A full tub weighs several tons. It also needs a path for the electrician's line and a drain-off direction that does not send water to the house. Check the tub maker's instructions and any city rule before the pour.
I want a shop slab for a vehicle lift or heavy equipment. What changes?
A vehicle lift needs thicker concrete where the posts bolt down, often 6 inches or more of a strong mix, and the lift maker sets the minimum. Heavy equipment needs a thicker slab and more steel throughout. In a detached garage or shop, we plan the slab around where the lift will go. A building slab needs a permit and Michigan's frost protection rules for the footings.
Do I need gravel under a slab? Do I need a vapor barrier?
Yes, on Lincoln Park clay, a compacted gravel base under a slab is essential. It gives a firm, even bed, drains water away from the bottom of the slab and reduces frost heave. A vapor barrier is a plastic sheet under the slab. It belongs under heated spaces, basements and finished floors, where moisture coming up would damage flooring. Driveways and patios do not need one.
We need a pad that takes delivery trucks. How is it built?
A pad for delivery trucks needs a thicker slab, more steel, a deeper base and joints planned around the wheel paths. Box trucks and dumpster trucks put much more weight on each wheel than a car. The edges, where tires roll on and off, need the most strength. We ask what trucks will use the pad and how often before we set the design.
Pool deck: resurface, pavers or new concrete?
If the pool deck is level and only worn or stained, resurfacing is the cheapest fix, at $3 to $6 per square foot nationally for a pool deck. If it has sunk, heaved or cracked through, it needs replacing, with concrete or pavers. Either one needs a textured, non-slip finish and a slope away from the pool. Most pools around here are covered half the year, so frost and the freeze-thaw cycle are what wear decks out.
A patio is going against the house. What goes between them?
An isolation joint, sometimes called an expansion joint, goes between them. It is a strip of compressible material that lets the slab and the house move on their own. Without it, the slab can crack or push on the foundation. The top of that joint should be sealed with a flexible sealant so water does not run down along the basement wall.
For an honest look at what suits your lot, call (313) 889-7953 for a free estimate.